“Definitely a 2nd glass kind o’ wine for this taster, and maybe a 3rd glass too.”

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I guess I haven’t been paying attention lately, because I only found out about Mary Taylor Wines a few weeks ago. Mary Taylor is a negociant who specializes in importing “the kind of honest, authentic wines that the Europeans have been enjoying for centuries.” These are “wines of place,” sourced from classic European wine regions and made by specific winemakers from each. They are the kinds of wines that I have come to favor over the years, and based on the three noted here, I’ll definitely be looking for more of them. There are more than 30; you can read about them on her website, as well as Ms. Taylor’s philosophy that drives her business model.

My introduction to Mary Taylor Wines came a few weeks ago, during a stop at York Ann Arbor, formerly known as Morgan and York. After our friend and colleague Chaad Thomas shared some background information about the following selection, I had to pick one up and see what it was all about. Man, am I glad I did.

2020 Mary Taylor Wines Jean Marc Barthez Bordeaux Blanc, 95% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Semillon, 12% alc., $16.99: Clean, lemon-tinged color, but not a lot on the nose. Appealing stony gooseberry and quince flavors are decidedly different from the Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand that’s all over the place these days, and that’s fine with me. Medium bodied, with active acidity and good depth and intensity. This has zing, but it’s not zing on steroids like a lot of the Kiwis. This will pair well with a variety of fish and fowl dishes; we enjoyed it with baked cod, quinoa and mushrooms and snap peas. Jean Marc Barthez is head of this small co-op winery in Bordeaux’s Entre-Deux-Mers region. Find this wine

Sourced from vineyards that surround the winery and fermented without oak to preserve the underlying expression of its classic terroir, this is Sauvignon Blanc as channeled through the unique prism of Bordeaux. 

From York Ann Arbor, we sauntered over to Everyday Wines, in Kerrytown. I’ve already posted notes on the two reds we purchased there, but we also picked up the following bottle, inspired by the purchase we’d just made.

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2021 Mary Taylor Wines Olivier Gessler Côtes de Gascogne, 50% Colombard, 20% Ugni Blanc, 20% Gros Manseng, 10% Sauvignon Blanc, 11.5% alc., $12.00: Clean light-to-medium straw color, and stingy on the nose. Much more assertive on the palate, with nice intensity to the green apple and pear flavors, and some underlying mineral that shows more on the lingering finish. Medium bodied, with zippy acidity, this is both food friendly and enjoyable to sip all on its own. I happily poured myself a 2nd glass of this one. Find this wine

IGP Côtes de Gascogne shares the same land surface as Armagnac, in the beautiful French Southwest. The Gessler family settled here, in the heart of Bas-Armagnac, in 1928. We are now on the 4th generation – a robust family business with 20 full time employees. This is one of the more thoughtfully farmed properties – registered HVE 3 and in organic conversion. They tend to indigenous varietals such as Colombard, Ugni Blanc, and Gros Manseng, from which this wine is made. 

Finally, I found this one last week at Holiday Market in Royal Oak. I had already made friends with the two whites noted above, so I had reason to believe that it would provide a similarly engaging drinking experience.

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2020 Mary Taylor Wines Sophie Siadou Valençay, 35% Gamay, 35% Cot, 30% Pinot Noir, 13.5% alc., $18.99: Darker than your average Pinot Noir or Gamay, due, no doubt, to the presence of the Cot (Malbec). Likewise, the fruit bowl cherry and berry flavors and aromas are tempered and anchored by deeper, darker stuff. While the individual varietal characteristics are apparent here, they’re blended seamlessly, making a greater whole from the components. This opens nicely with just a little air, revealing an earthy black cherry, blackberry and black plum melange of flavor, shaded with a little old wood and leather that this taster finds appealing, even charming. Round, medium-full to full-bodied, and structured for at least a year or two in the cellar, there’s nothing flashy here, just an honest, straightforward, tasty red wine that I’d be happy to open for anyone, right now. Definitely a 2nd glass kind o’ wine for this taster, and maybe a 3rd glass too. Find this wine

The flinty soils of the Loire Valley appellation of Valençay are known for giving their wines a finesse, perhaps even a chalkiness. This cuvée is known as “Les Griottes” or ‘the cherries’ as its gentle flavor and character has notes of red fruits (cherry, blackcurrant), with a hint of spices in the finish. Farmed sustainably and fermented with indigenous yeasts. You might try one of the area’s famed goat cheeses to pair with this classically elegant wine. 

Mary Taylor Wines are imported by Nashawtuc LLC, Sandy Hook, CT

Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo

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