No Loose Cannonau

“It’s a wine that tastes more Spanish or Sicilian than mainland “Italian” to me…”

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I’ve been a fan of this wine for several years, but this is the first time I’ve had the opportunity to review it. Cannonau is a native variety on the Italian island of Sardinia, and Sella & Mosca is “foremost wine producer” there, according to their importer. I’ve gotten acquainted with it while enjoying it several times at Trattoria Da Luigi in downtown Royal Oak. It serves well as a good alternative to better-known wines from Tuscany and the Piedmont, and it’s reasonably priced. I recently decided to bring one home, spend some time with it and to find out what the current model has to offer.

2019 Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva, 14% alc., $18.99: Clean garnet color, with a modest nose of dark cherry and berry. It’s something else on the palate, however, with a big bunch of black cherries and black berries, supported by a healthy dose of earthy tannins and active acids. Full bodied and fairly ripe, this likes a little air, say 30 minutes or so, to start to open and reveal more of its ample charms. This will go well with all kinds of grilled red meats this summer, but you can lay some down for five years and it will improve as it ages. A hint of chocolate emerges with extended air.

I like this, it’s a pleasant change from the southern Rhones we’ve been trying lately. It balances the somewhat riper fruit (don’t worry, it’s still dry) with an earthiness that adds to the character and appeal. I decanted half a bottle and enjoyed a third glass 90 minutes later, quite liking how it continued to open as long as some was left. It’s a wine that tastes more Spanish or Sicilian than mainland “Italian” to me, and there’s nothing wrong with that. I bought this for $18.99 at Holiday Market in Royal Oak, but the following winesearcher link gives a listing of $13.94 at Woods Wholesale in Grosse Pointe. Find this wine

Imported by Taub Family Selections, Boca Raton, FL

Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo

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