Bargain Burgundy

“People who only know the fruit-forward California-styled Pinot Noir will probably not like this wine; hell, they might not even recognize it as being Pinot Noir.”

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Did you know that you can buy alcohol legally in Michigan Costco outlets without a membership? It’s true; Michigan is one of several states in which it is illegal to require a membership for alcohol purchases.

I only mention this because I’m finding good wines in the Detroit-area Costcos we shop in, and reviewing them regularly in this blog. I would hate for someone to miss out on stuff like this next one because they are under the mistaken impression that they need a membership to do so.

While a 1952 Domaine Ponnelle Bonnes-Mares continues to stand out in my memory as one of the two or three best wines I’ve ever had the good fortune to taste in my life, the fact remains that we don’t drink a lot of red Burgundy at our house. The reason for this is simple, really; it tends to be expensive, and we have always gotten better bang for our bucks elsewhere. This is a shame, because the really good stuff is, well, really, really good! 

When we do go in for these oldest and most marvelous expressions of Pinot Noir, it’s usually from one of the lesser villages or even a simple Bourgogne rouge. I’d been eying this, Jean-Claude Boisset’s entry lever red, in the bins of our friendly neighborhood Costco for a while, and last week I finally decided to give it a go. In retrospect, I should have picked one up the first time I saw it, because it’s quite enjoyable.

2019 Jean-Claude Boisset Bourgogne Les Ursulines Pinot Noir, 11-14% alc., $19.99: Easy on the eye, with a clean ruby color, and pleasant on the nose as well, with some black cherry and plum conjured up with swirlatude. Unpretentious and straightforward, but by no means shy on the palate, this delivers a good dose of earthy plum and black cherry, with just a hint of rhubarb on the back end. Medium full-bodied, with good structure for at least a few years in the cellar, but I found something to like here with the first sip, and I poured a glass as soon as I cracked the Stelvin enclosure. It opens quickly, with just a little air. 

People who only know the fruit-forward California-styled Pinot Noir will probably not like this wine; hell, they might not even recognize it as being Pinot Noir. It’s not “ripe” by any means, but neither is it lacking in fruit. It’s decidedly dry, and much to my liking in that regard. It’s not a wow kind of wine, but it is a solid, (semi) everyday Bourgogne rouge at a fair price.

I’ll pick up a few more of these the next time I’m at Costco, if you readers don’t beat me there and buy it all up. Like I said, it’s well worth the money.

Imported by Boisset America, St. Helena, CA

Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo

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  1. Pingback: Old Vine Pinot Noir | Tasting Notes from the Underground

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