“The fruit may have come from the Leelanau Peninsula,
but the winemaking is pure Jim Lester.”
Click image to enlarge
We haven’t seen our old buddy, winemaker Jim Lester, since before the pandemic. We were big advocates for his Wyncroft wines back in the Gang of Pour years; they demonstrated that world class wines can and are being made in Michigan, in this case, from his estate vineyards in the southwestern corner of the state, in the Lake Michigan Shore appellation. His reds, in particular, showed a depth and intensity rarely, if ever, produced in the mitten previously.
Wyncroft’s 2nd label, Marland (meaning “land near the lake” in Old English), was inaugurated in 2013, sourcing grapes from other LMS vineyards, and grown to Jim’s specifications, with the intent of providing high quality Michigan wines that don’t require cellaring and can be enjoyed every day. We’ve had several of these over the years, and all have been impressive, but this is the first one we’ve tried in quite a while. I found this at Plum Market, and was particularly interested because the grapes were sourced in the Leelanau Peninsula, rather than LMS.
2019 Marland Pinot Noir Leelanau Peninsula, $19.99: This baby is intense and primary. It starts out looking very inviting, with a pretty kind of smoky, medium garnet color that one might expect with Pinot Noir. It’s expressive on the nose, all black cherry and plum, with overtones of something like sea air. The black cherry and plum echo and expand on the palate, with a subtle earthiness underneath. It’s a little more than medium bodied, and quite intense. When I took my 1st sip, it had already spent 40 minutes in a decanter, and I thought it almost raw, with some serious tannins and acids showing. I spent close to an hour with that first glass; it opened up dramatically, and I didn’t hesitate to pour myself another when it was drained. It’s obviously a cold climate Pinot, with its just-ripe character. The fruit may have come from the Leelanau Peninsula, but the winemaking is pure Jim Lester.
This has the depth and structure to age for three-to-five years, anyway, and I would like to see where it goes with some time in the cellar. You can drink and enjoy it now, however, but you have to give it some air. I’d recommend decanting for an hour before pouring glasses, and you’ll be rewarded. A very good value here. Find this wine
It’s good to get reacquainted with Jim’s wines. He and his partner Daun Page seem to have Wyncroft/Marland moving forward nicely, which is good to see for this longtime observer. You’ll be seeing my impressions on more of their wines in the coming weeks and months. I’ve never had one that failed to deliver the goods and impress.
Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo
