“These cold climate reds are never going to achieve the kind of ripeness
you’d find in, say, Napa or Sonoma, nor should they.”

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The two regional Bordeaux blends in this report had been resting patiently in our cellar for the last decade, but lately, I’ve been eying them with some trepidation. I was worried that they might be getting a bit long in the tooth, and wouldn’t show nearly as well as they might have a few years ago. The Left Foot Charley Cadia was gifted to me after my first musical performance at LFC by owner/winemaker Bryan Ulbrich. The Tawse Cab Merlot was purchased around the same time from the winery, during one of our visits to our partner-in-crime, Alan Kerr aka Canadian Zinfan, of Gang of Pour infamy. A few nights ago, I finally decided that it was time to pull corks and see what we have been sitting on for so long.

We’ve been fans of Left Foot Charley from the very beginning. We like everything they make, be it red, white, bubbly or cider, but our focus until now has been more on their Pinot Blanc and Rieslings, which have been top-notch. This was the maiden voyage for LFC’s Cadia, which has so far only been bottled in 2011, 2013, 2016 and 2017, according to their online media guide.

2011 Left Foot Charley Cadia Engle Ridge Farm Grand Traverse County, 70% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, 13.8% alc.: Still good dark color, with little, if any bricking. Expressive aromatics show the French oak character (14 months worth) morphing into secondary nuances of cedar and mahogany. These impressions carry over onto the palate, along with some earth, a little tar and a solid core of black fruit. Any fears I had that it might be tired, over-the-hill or worse were quickly dispelled with the first sip. This full-bodied blend actually has the structural backbone for at least a few years of further aging, along with nice length on the finish, where it turns slightly green. Interestingly, this was made with grapes sourced from grower Ken Engel’s first crop, from vines planted in 2009. LFC’s tech sheet recommends pairing with Lamb chops, eggplant, pork shoulder, cheese ravioli and gorgonzola hamburger. I enjoyed a glass all by its lonesome whilst scribbling these notes. I’m glad I waited until now to open it, it’s in a really good drinking window. The latest vintage, 2017, can be found for around $35. I’ll have to get my hands on one of those and try it sometime. Find this wine

We make a point of stopping into Tawse every time we visit Chef Kerr in Niagara wine country. We love pretty much everything about this fine producer, especially their Pinot Noir and Rieslings, but after trying this one in the tasting room, we liked it well enough to bring one home. It had always been my intention to try it alongside the Cadia, so things worked out perfectly.

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2011 Tawse Cabernet Merlot Niagara Peninsula VQA, 13% alc.: No bricking to the good color, as of yet, but swirlatude is needed to coax some red and black fruit shaded with hints of baking spices on the nose. Full bodied and amply structured, you can drink this now or hold it for a few more years. The black currant and blackberry flavors are straightforward, underscored with subtle earth, a little green and those same hints of baking spices that the nose whispered. I tasted this a few hours after it was opened, and it is quite an enjoyable glass of red wine. If someone poured it blind for me, I would not think that it was 12 years old. Enjoy this with any grilled red meats. I can’t remember exactly what we paid for this, but the current vintage, 2019, goes for $22.95 CA, and that sounds about right. A blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Find this wine

These cold climate reds are never going to achieve the kind of ripeness you’d find in, say, Napa or Sonoma, nor should they. They perform at high levels, and my wife Kim and this taster found plenty to like in each. I’d imagine that they’ll be difficult to find, given their age, but based on our impressions, we’ll certainly be looking for more recent vintages to try.

Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo

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